Indeed, I suspect even expert imagers might be hard pressed to discern differences between images captured with an "ordinary" DSLR and LRGB images with high-end gear. Sincerely, How can I fix this? Heres the plan: Since I do not want to rip apart my 450D just yet, as I use it A LOT for daytime photography, I will wait until boxing day, at which point I will buy a new DSLR, then either mod the 450D myself, or fork out the cash to do it right at KW Telescope. This review is most valuable to those shooting. Some emission nebula are well suited for a stock camera, such as the Lagoon Nebula in Sagittarius. In that case you cannot set the aperture and there is a chance of dropping the lens. Of course there are more objects suitable for unmodded cameras like dark nebulae or planets but alas I do not have any image of those. You could mount your 100-400mm lens on there for some long exposure imaging. If you don't know what Bortle scale you have clearoutside.com will give you an estimation. I decided to put the next objects in a separate group because they are so large that the images are powdered by stars. Sorry just realised i've attached the tif file. Images shot in my backyard without a filter on my 600D are completely white after a 120-second sub at ISO 1600. This nebula doesnt even EXIST with an unmodded DSLR! Canon T7i, GSO RC8 at f/6, 120x5min, ISO 400, M33. Galaxies often show plenty of color in broadband. As youll be able to tell from the photo below, the California Nebula is not one of them. Well done my friend. The Cygnus Wall refers to the area of the nebula that resembles Mexico and Central America. There is very little you can do from a static tripod.For deep sky objects you need a mount or a tracker. Most beginners are troubled by the amount of stars that distract from the nebulae. I'm still beginner at processing, so that is just the 'first revision', hope I can improve it yet! Canon T7i, GSO RC8 at f/6, 43x2min, ISO 400 M16. I want to push my exposures to the limit.. but it would have to be under dark skies at the CCCA! https://www.cloudyninmodified-dslr/. The LPRO Max is an interesting option for those who wish to create starry landscape images of the Milky Way. I am just a beginner into Astrophotography. @Mayhem13, thanks. The HDR10 support on the Nebula Solar adds granular detail and color to faces and landscapes alike. I have the followings So far I had sucesss using the 50mm f/1.8 and 300mm F/4L with the Skytech filters. I live in Southern California and as you can imagine light pollution is heavy, but I do travel to Nevada alot and shooting in the desert would prove to be much better for reduced light pollution. You have managed to get the duality of colour in the image that I was not able to capture. A wide-field refractor telescope with a short focal length is recommended for such a large astrophotography target. Required fields are marked *, document.getElementById("comment").setAttribute( "id", "ad1caed95c7aee09784abc88f213d4d4" );document.getElementById("cfd2c22fe2").setAttribute( "id", "comment" );Comment *, Dear Sir, The North America Nebula using a 135mm Camera Lens (Ha Filter). The Milky Way. Any help/advice/feedback would be greatly appreciated. Equipment: 180mm Maksutov, ZWO 1600mm camera. Edited by Volta55, 15 November 2021 - 09:33 PM. I enjoy following you on Youtube. It comes out red. We also display the single shot obtained with each camera and all acquisition details. Due to the extreme light pollution from my backyard, Ive decided to create a grey-scale version of my image. The photo was created by taking 35 x 5-minute exposures @ ISO 1600 under moderately dark skies. These SkyTech models are just for APS-C bodies. have you heard about any good filters for Nikon cameras? Canon T7i, GSO RC8 at f/6, 57x2min, ISO 400, M27. I also live in a red LP area, and would like some advice. This filter is suitable for imagers on the outskirts of town, dealing with moderate levels of light pollution. Quite the adventure you are about to take on and I hope you do! In your article you conclude the SkyTech CLS-CCD is the best for modified cameras, but Jaap Spigt ask you for a recommendation with his Canon 60Da specifically made for Astrophotography, so I assume same as a modified camera, you recommend the CLS EOS clip filter, a filter for NON-modified cameras. I want to buy a filter for City Light Pollution. In some cases you see a flare in the image. When the stars are reduced in size during post processing the objects show up more clearly. Not everyone will be able to "taste" a difference and even if they do, taste is a very personal opinion. Hey man, I just stumbled on your youtube channel and wanted to say thank you, Ive just recently been interested in astrophotography and I live in Toronto and find your videos very helpful/relatable. Mind sharing with a newbie?Im trying to understand ISO selection and what drives the decision? The timeline below shows my progress on NGC 7000 over the years. The constellation Taurus and the beautiful Pleiades star cluster is not far away. As far as deep-sky objects go, NGC 7000 is absolutely massive (120 100 arcmins). Canon EOS Rebel T3i and 102mm refractor telescope. If you remove the IR filter without a replacement the optical length changes. Your email address will not be published. But rabbit holes are everywhere! Canon T7i, TS 65mm Imaging Star, f/6.5, 40x30sec, ISO 400. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. To capture the intense hydrogen gas of this interstellar cloud, long exposure images must be captured on a tracking equatorial mount. When imaged together with the nearby Running Man nebula an unmodded camera can even be superior because it dims the bright Orion Nebula down a bit so that the blueish running man appears brighter in the image. The transmission curves to me look to be pretty similar. A telescope with a shorter focal length will reveal an equally impressive nebula close by, IC 5070. If you go for a shorter focal length you need a mask with more and smaller bars. The Temperature helped no doubt, the motto of the evening was "Why cool your chip, when ypou can cool the world around you?".. You can find many of these images on my website 'elf-of-lothlorien.de'. The following photo was captured from my backyard during a nearly full moon (85% illumination) using an astro-modified Canon EOS Rebel T3i and a Rokinon 135mm (Samyang) lens. This image was captured from a Bortle Scale Class 8 backyard (where I lived in 2017), on a small camera tracker called the iOptron SkyGuider Pro. Without a B-mask use live view on the camera display and go for 10x mag and reduce exposure time until the star is dim. Once removed, the camera is able to record more details in the h-alpha portion of the visible spectrum. Andy I totally understand your confusion. M51 and NGC 5194. If you are not familiar with this nebula, it is located near the bright star, Menkib, in Perseus. One needs to know all options to make the right decision. What Recommendations Can you give me beside my 2 questions above? An equatorial mount is best and I usually suggest the Orion Sirius EQ-G on a budget: http://amzn.to/2xHx5HC But this means either mounting your 6SE tube to this or getting a new scope. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. Here's the very last image I took using my Lumix G9 as my camera: That's just over 1.5 hours of integration under my Bortle 6 skies. 3. These photos were captured using a Canon 7D Mark II DSLRwith an EF 17-40mm f/4L USM Lens. The standard best practices apply when photographing this target, such as a precise polar alignment, and a concentrated effort to focus the stars. No, I will not. The Canon Rebel series DSLR cameras have reliable workhorses for many astronomy applications. The IDAS seems to outperform the Astronomik but is more expensive. The image above was captured from my light-polluted backyard in the city (Bortle Scale Class 7). I dont recommend trying to create a wide-angle Milky Way portrait from your suburban backyard, save that for a camping trip or trip to darker skies. Total Exposure: 1 Hour, 18 Minutes Nice job, Was this it? 4. It sounds like your camera is not modified, so the CLS (Not CLS-CCD) is what you want. The image below was captured using a Canon EOS Rebel DSLR (full-spectrum modified) and a Canon EF 24-105mm F/4L Lens. Canon T7i, TS 65mm Imaging Star, f/6.5, 41x5min, ISO 400. 2. I have used an unmodded Canon 7D Mark II for awhile and am quite pleased with its results on H alpha, even without using a CLS clip in filter. We will see this in a bit. I also combined narrowband h-alpha data collected using a Rokinon 135mm F/2 lens (at F/3.2) and my Canon EOS T3i DSLR. Canon EOS Rebel T3i and a 70mm refractor telescope. Canon T7i, GSO RC8 at f/6, 158x5min, ISO 400. There are plenty of bright Ha objects. 4. Its interesting (and perhaps inspiring) to witness the progress made on a specific target over time. I only got 3.75 hours of data but still ended up with a recognizable image. In this article you review the SkyTech filter line and include a fine pictue using the CLS filter, but when asked to make a recommendation you said Astronomik CLS filter. Very likely your first processed image will not look like a Hubble image. The following image was captured using a Canon EOS Rebel Xsi DSLR camera (The Canon EOS T7i is the updated model) and an Explore Scientific ED80 apochromatic refractor telescope. So my question is why go with the CLS-CCD over the CLS for modded cameras? That may come later, but you have very ably demonstrated that high-qulaity results are certainly within their reach. (Even in wide angle shots eg. If you shoot DSLR deep sky astrophotography with a modified Canon camera, the SkyTech CLS-CCD is a must. Another benefit to wide-field nebulae like this is that a lightweight, compact telescope is well-suited to photograph it (see the astrophotography telescopes I recommend). As a rule of thumb removing the filter enhances the sensitivity by a factor of two or three depending on how the IR filter is designed. When I research input read noise for your camera, its nearly a magnitude lower at 3200 which Ive heard produces substantially less noise..or is that all irrelevant when were talking 3min subs? I hope you have found this resource useful in your on-going passion for capturing the night sky. Beginners cannot know if that is caused by flaws in the data or lack of processing skills. That's actually beyond impressive, you did a great job sir! The lens was set to its maximum focal length of 105mm to produce the scale of this target shown below. As expected, the LPRO Max filter from SkyTech lets the widest array of light wavelengths through, to capture the true color of the landscape, while keeping light pollution at bay. I chose the Rosette nebula as it is so bright that the unmodded cam has a sliver of a chance. This design lets more overall light in but renders the colors in the Milky Way more accurately. Galaxies are another favourite but most are either too big - m31 - or too small to get good shots without extra magnification like m82/81 or sculptor galaxy. For instance, the LPRO Max filter is designed for wide angle landscape astrophotography andproduces more natural looking star colors than traditional UHC or CLS filters. The mono can be used to take Ha only and mix it into the color data taken with the DSLR or OSC. A modified camera however is neither required nor beneficial. If a galaxy is nearby the Ha regions can be resolved. The question is, will getting my camera modded make a significant difference to the image. The core of our Milky Way galaxy has returned to our night sky here in the Northern Hemisphere, and with it comes many celestial delights such as the, Continue Reading HaRGB AstrophotographyContinue, Your email address will not be published. Great article. Longer image exposures mean a deeper view on your subject. This is a fortunate occurrence that doesnt come very often, especially during a Canadian winter. This time, I used a Canon EF 300mm F/4L lens to capture the action. It is said that it is possible to observe this emission nebula with the unaided eye but requires extremely dark skies and excellent seeing. Does that mean you must not image it? Also your star colours are much better. In regards to astroscapes or milky way photography would you recommend the L-pro from Optolong or the Lpro Max from Skytech? The photo above was captured from my backyard in March 2019 using a Sky-Watcher Esprit 100 APO refractor telescope. Your results bring home the points made by the Elf in his article about using unmodified DSLRs. Best of all, it fits nicely over any clip-in astrophotography filter you choose to use on your DSLR. That is the magic of a light pollution filter. Using EF lenses. When I shot the North American Nebula, my Astro-buddies said things like Wow your unmodded Xsi picks up a lot of red and I thought, hey, maybe I can hold off on an expensive and intrusive mod to my precious Canon. At a fixed 50mm focal length, the Canon EF f/1.8 STM Lens fits multiple deep-sky objects in one shot. Great inspiration for beginners like me. This is an awesome write up with lots of good information! For wide-field targets like the North America Nebula, a DSLR or mirrorless camera has an advantage over many of the dedicated astronomy cameras available. A. Brott, the images are taken on a German Equatorial Mount, a Skywatcher EQ6-R with auto guiding. It is the most expensive but it doesnt create the harsh filtering needed for deep-sky close ups in the city. Comet Neowise 2020. These are from my first real attempt at DSOs with my setup I bought years ago. Anyway, I do have a link to an excellent video that shows the process of modding: As a newbie, this is very interesting to me. Related: Recommended Astrophotography Telescopes. That is like 1/500s or so. Imagine what you could accomplish in moderately light polluted skies? They show up as pink dots in the spiral arms. These clip-in filters were graciously sent to me from Ontario Telescope and Accessories. The star color and background sky are a little on the red side, so that will need to be corrected by shooting subs using a filter with a wider band-pass. This all contributes to a washed out night sky full of street lamp glow and more. Whether you shoot with a modified camera through a telescope or a stock DSLR with a camera lens attached, a light pollution filter will help you shoot longer subs. 5 mins subs x 10 and stacked on DSS, a little bit of color came out but not much,. "Beginner's Astrophotography: Can I use my unmodified DSLR?" There are good reasons not to do it, for example the camera is used for daytime photography as well or the budget does not allow either to have an existing camera modified or get a modified one. I believe the image is useful to those looking to frame up this target using a telephoto camera lens or a wide-field telescope. I have a D5200, and shot (mostly)Heart and Soul nebula using a Ioptron Skytracker. The North America Nebula is observable to those living in the northern hemisphere, in the constellation Cygnus the Swan. Thanks for the article and the link. This is especially effective in capturing the nebulae in Milky Way with your modified DSLR. When the central star in the Ring nebula in Lyra shows up you can be proud of what you have achieved in terms of good focus and good guiding. Just wanted to say thanks for the awesome videos and keep them comingsaving too buy my first telescope, a skywatcher esprit 100ed and an eq6-r proam hooked:-), Thank you Avis! The North America Nebula (sometimes incorrectly referred to as the North American Nebula) is rather easy to find thanks to its close proximity to the bright star, Deneb. It takes a region of about 30' in the sky, which is a bit larger than the size of the Full Moon. Owners of high-magnification, long focal length telescopes (1000mm+) tend to focus their attention on a specific area of the nebula. Picture Quality: HDR10 and 1080p. Modern lenses have electronics for autofocus and stabilization inside. I decided I would give this object a fair kick in the can. Sign up for a new account in our community. Probably the most famous one in the northern hemisphere is the Great Orion Nebula. Awesome job! I too was in your situation at one time I had a Dob and a stock camera. If you shoot in light polluted skies with a DSLR, listen up. Im a bit confused. At the end of the day, youre going to have to make the call on which astrophotography filter is best for your unique imaging situation. Before you go down the modded route, try a 7 or 8 minute exposure at the observatory. By now you should have an ideaof how much light these filters let in, and how the CLS-CCD filter performs on deep sky objects. Sure, modified, and dedicated astrocams have many advantages, and I hope to have one sometime. Many of them are composite images that contain Ha data from a mono camera.
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